朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn0p5xwCkf6
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtIA5fnLUt3
「這麼早？」旭仔問。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR6fyh2ihew
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPLIV2MzECH
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaDeJ7cVD2o
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJRFkR3dqva
「是啊，要趕路了。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHH5FQOhp6J
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd3qXLKEMZA
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU7Z6bqN9fG
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmz35ct698F
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBGJTWSBOnV
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBYNB5eAt5l
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFRe7uUhv5J
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9VtG96qMb5
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn32LDC89LX
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHOY41HYEVy
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiS2ql7oWmm
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBId0cNHSVb
「謝謝你。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJfvtJi9VWP
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJSz0otSAHJ
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOkwX35uc7v
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9B8slmqVE8
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡckatdlmJZY
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEquVbHlXUS
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrViZL7xw2s
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGU9UekmmZd
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbU1aA2yvnb
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOdwwPdXNNH
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH2oqGKDZIm
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPZJtHxgFnP
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNt31uQDgt8
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoRdK0y5uIZ
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKPSITZSlMV
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3eguqNQyU6
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtKcKrpILBz
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ui33qPXqE
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxCyLfy99cB
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfAoNIMqeLN
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM18FOzI8oa
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI7AJOX1qcb
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdw2KVUiHuA
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxdYvBQT8v1
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMqqjo9wpZr
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqCMaPRQfmb
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb60jnz0T6S
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjKSf8MqvEj
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkYdxlSccRA
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡggYNBocJNL
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI1fxQx3GuK
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5uPlzPV7go
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSD1ZdaomJ9
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcNM8RH80Hw
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNc3GyKj2Ix
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZvOOeqnr9F
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZXlBq6BJhH
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjgTBgisuRK
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqSWevXPJzo
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0UY9rGPFDD
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi8aliMqPPy
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIaFMhuIcCW
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyRaHcFwJUj
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt9P5XyQuby
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcZqMkpRcCf
「是的。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0xfdByZcWS
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSdwJHRV8Ca
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxGKqOjsBUT
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiitW8xYpq7
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG2JSf10J4F
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaXDf2tghli
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOyR5nzVLuj
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4dusH5Kh2s
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLiGrfpW4l2
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs09hxJ4mKe
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoyEEyH2C6v
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQJf9vZ4bM8
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOTpPpAqUMY
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpfRcb0FLsm
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmcmurhqf92
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsiSVTfOVJh
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfMmVIdgXJl
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnIUGNRDMHH
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZFUiea5XVt
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5vMhHr5dxR
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ70afrW7Kwv
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAO48nlN6eB
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiGyIACh0tj
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB5YIXvTD8V
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjy7sQie7ld
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmUBFArGz4c
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhZ5XmnzJlo
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUsl2C3cyOd
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3SwqLFwa8X
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj1R3vi6Rf9
「太好了！」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCXxAaQt4YJ
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuec0erxVq0
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4MVcCOWoNN
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNLqrwKKr5V
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3SBMazSBqK
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOrmd054QLd
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8Tj6SK7P1D
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVoTU0IdcG0
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTs4Fr9a0T2
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgLlRuZFUg7
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJVfPj05Rel
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ7Aan8Gki3
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡegLowOahSP
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt1jaD5tDWq
「好。」旭仔答。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXFiNGONG6V
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0GyEwKayXy
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiUAaDTjyt3
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBpPq5M8pe6
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIKfKzBQqxN
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAHx3oAnfF0
旭仔淺嘗一口。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6tAyzd9fkt
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwZtTcJM3ch
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQNdlbqhIRx
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa9BeEMor7N
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXBGEvrLqE4
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSvdhiiqWRW
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtVxbS306JU
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzc4rOcda6S
「好喝。」旭仔答。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYNJNaHMDCf
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7TQVzAcaz2
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmiNlicKyYE
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV8waTp5QB3
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUicg6uo9Ak
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmJ1zq7Y1vY
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK2Wysjb5jz
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNU8aBNLTYu
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡABS1rXWS4F
629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvUZJRNrWJu
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。629Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBqZxidhJoa
