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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ5DM6JbunH
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8N9FiPQRTU
「這麼早？」旭仔問。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4vK4tW4rJ3
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGSweYEbAjK
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8xjWjqLXjZ
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR7twQTjiJ5
「是啊，要趕路了。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoTvSdzaaaP
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqHx0NH7Fos
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSIZqlcizSK
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbc5RMXOXqs
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUvBuFBH5e2
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIgSun3owlR
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkzVxWFVyJz
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY0HqEMgdex
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIoQg00l6QB
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4E2SLRKVsz
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4wM35juO0b
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEZodn0DgfB
「謝謝你。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ49PLHhluiR
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoEYNJGEpoz
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqUnEy5HRXF
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkdeDGCekSB
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIDTORzUOaK
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1mZ0eExIBd
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJaLO67rDAy
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvYMTTnFzj6
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5PdpEJD4Zl
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFpM1ILELUa
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHFYTMMSoxj
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWZ4wFDEdxb
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHcybgvBnO2
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIxVMugotzO
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8ikptiXrmw
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOIXgqp2gZG
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡULFpm5hSBJ
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyvH5b1hFhu
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHU5aJPirGU
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXVpLLvTXUu
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDVKsu453UA
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLyXOoKwac8
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ74JVuJ5r05
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb7mO6uOHwQ
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA37LwgVC4T
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrxsVSNZ3Pl
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCB0SV1Crog
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbcHTW786qQ
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7gupiBhD7l
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnTQlEr2emu
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa10AfXJftM
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Ndla1uMde
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLsP45CTrNH
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIgtf2B9aRG
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm8ah0kF20K
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoGYdtZ9LIH
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2hqTbmxm54
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ94XlIK8hXk
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcVq8wmVjvo
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6CjOk4umLx
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaRYQKSjGTQ
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmR0Y6BCwuC
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeRFPlSfrNo
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8NLbcKmtI
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0DhT3foGi5
「是的。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSKy696XXm1
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNhzopAu3Gn
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSs82WqETsZ
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrMAj2vXcQD
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkdMAxaXlAO
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYexgmlTuUM
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf9EGCeACuA
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2eFES6Q29H
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHkRiQ3uHxS
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8KmK3jZL77
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc7e97d8BHJ
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIgfhVVKxrE
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQn02cWvw0x
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBCY4442Dds
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyU9kBIM02n
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡycllRstCLL
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfdbjTGXgLh
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDeOIHPE68R
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkkp4mWzS5t
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcJU3rT5YI2
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtrZaysBu7W
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIOBeZuZtpc
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmSue0XgT6G
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiwkeCU4kjS
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYxTY40xNCW
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAGu619ZZIZ
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6Rw13KidEJ
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ4H3XK9VH7
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiOsiOSkgzu
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEsOGaEm7OM
「太好了！」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8cOxjvEcOv
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQDwS0lrWcD
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkHZmuxPX3T
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡalGarXJUTz
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0DdfqSQzVo
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnvNQU0oA8h
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJXhaYP8sr7
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7EZolJ2LqU
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoJJu6ac4Cg
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡApikHLQMPk
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkVwu55jnE9
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp4W0TrD43r
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMogJ8VoCh0
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfgsumWaTQl
「好。」旭仔答。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡONsZMLdKjd
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡksvyrfeJA2
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe0lBraGE3t
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJj0GkoB1lx
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpeobXPFICM
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvg8TCZdva5
旭仔淺嘗一口。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrdv8H89RrB
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ45PZU9OxxG
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzX1LBylCav
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwkBbR52na9
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB3Cyg1Rimx
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSS6hlmdpu2
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC2tynHxGJH
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdfsrAfn08z
「好喝。」旭仔答。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5aEXKT2PhV
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCDPQlNylQ5
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKjqhcm6hty
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlyHMyJCYAi
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKumio7tvxk
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2YFuUt1gSK
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl2eJg9vrvH
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1bAdThL1uW
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIGwf9dWxKM
540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVGPUJdwMXE
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。540Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIwJwI7UEJ0
