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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd6swSZqF8O
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSd4GKcv39u
「這麼早？」旭仔問。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7SKyg8NKPT
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWa1F7VIxiw
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡblKBWsZHtt
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiELlLXnZsB
「是啊，要趕路了。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwthajc0gnz
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbVnVP3jHbq
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPRG57TqwLt
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8DuyY6QzMP
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJzlIeoRske
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJTKn4V9KKg
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0cgIcrJzzB
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXDbfXY1BuA
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIWcNX4uQkW
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJchlA6RdVT
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWrJYlmZieY
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyf5fAk136q
「謝謝你。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXrrT0THRKM
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl6wqFR2IpF
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSjSw0ZliNp
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe8UpRvj0Ey
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjf2jes1I2I
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVVOnk7Wt17
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡER25iD6agA
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKM8bytni2n
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4mtfjoHvg0
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHh3JM5smdc
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXeK5Ksb9gu
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo87IffzHnF
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhbrV0ir3DM
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHeCaQREC6I
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4vHbytvnS3
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwgTDMwHK8T
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg5mxiJWfyu
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzj6Dg2CKgU
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjWxEjtObl6
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3HjgMYJPhi
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡldzCMg3OlG
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡApAQbHrWWX
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1jyx0DP3Fe
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0wxEl7E11t
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEMYEdgIl20
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeIW6CMtHSO
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz5HnpZTcsV
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv4vYh76FC9
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQQdXJpAuZL
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1GIarSZib6
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbutBSb4O40
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡujvnXUyDWH
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx8Ilv5JH66
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuoUKE8Mm1m
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo5650mE1vx
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHyfNWMkrQV
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyTAHJPIBxC
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡofRTP4eWOB
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSUMLizRJ3k
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyjUtnznvOU
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpPZrE8OYHt
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4IhqsY4NL1
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2bVAXaCAKs
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWiB3a4CDpt
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjI5DclvaRD
「是的。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYu9oH51mkt
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb7PgmTFVFw
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJPep65X1l5
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF4D1m0VqaJ
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhBQtSzLhGV
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkE7DEa3Y35
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3du0UzwBeT
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq2PoTHXPMX
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8sfeDC7GA2
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0JDlWTeeqY
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQMa0m8KeRj
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG95f3FMnVm
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSCq1OtRy9s
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE5vc1tqolT
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh4oloCdspy
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMVoJt36TUW
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkFnIlB7Nvb
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEkYxdWXASh
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡflRiygSSnY
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡssPzL2NSwR
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpND20TPaxC
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡENcYp1viYQ
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv7zW8kY5tz
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpR9FLuj9AB
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd0tb0jaEc7
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzafOtyCnqK
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrbMDekfTTU
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSbN1ZRs3iR
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Ls9FbdK9N
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWIzc39kTVR
「太好了！」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzYVcoTeAwp
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ7KJtVA5Q4
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjAXDn0drzw
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzZ70tUn2hB
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0dhBVvloZf
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGp59Ua1sOx
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj8dkjfGfiH
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmvreXwJruQ
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡptAcSC81tm
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf6D6SmPrnO
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWZsihjsJju
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcktBQ9irkO
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqyxaHP5doO
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbRTAibZMmH
「好。」旭仔答。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuJL5lEH7LL
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3e2TtJ8s7D
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd6jpFlOZSR
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9cKGyy28XZ
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0fl4IFWdzG
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRQLde1qrMZ
旭仔淺嘗一口。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGXMvwX2E3G
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlbSlURcWms
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSxqo9Ybh0m
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYwsC58rpOc
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWe3XpXXBGV
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwe3IHCo71Y
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ84lVUPTSpv
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡohu3Zt88rG
「好喝。」旭仔答。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvLYoO6bYJH
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1vYV98mkfH
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHtRWFCacPt
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMQH9B9zZOI
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlPRdZYXZYZ
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmvO6ZkMAGs
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡimir9guZhl
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhh6vDX7P9K
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOBoMSOJN5H
488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡewzlKBXUGe
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。488Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhOHran484v
