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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhx0hJYHGSg
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK2x7UbXgLC
「這麼早？」旭仔問。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ5JMdQ9RSw
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGK5aVbu0eT
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡslMlHqbnFU
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo2qkuknLPO
「是啊，要趕路了。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKmX2Qzs1ir
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXlkWEMgebQ
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKm8rCAssoU
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuzayAiwWgr
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNKV9Iz4QyY
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsh1PH6pg0m
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ47fJfPeJNT
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCRgX0vUMos
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPYG4FWav0b
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqiNIsIUqbg
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtqyfM5Z4Gp
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLJuSJBjrpl
「謝謝你。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeNkEmjiGIh
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ85TVtNAnUF
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJhPmp3sZgc
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9dIxt04WOB
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNs4bTNkL7S
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWigfY8bEOr
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVjkZrT1DVf
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLctxIQ7cNd
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ26mcYnG738
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVGgYBYYSgj
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGvw4fuMF90
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ59n9eQyaUm
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfPWXBELSBw
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ80n2P3RoF6
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWoR9yeXsT2
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8sEjEWS9Tv
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡedC7UivHvt
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRMqzOYQQLz
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMneF9NbjIl
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVOZQ6tQLpL
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKWxpt5jimN
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpiXRfZfOP5
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD3EloJEIcW
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBvk7zT1XQL
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxIqqKVXXHU
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6lFgO9PaP1
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfRQnSwHyvH
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm0B6FqEsln
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGiNQvYJADs
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnVo09Pc3ZM
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiag5sMpqt8
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlkYMWDtbB2
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn9lduIfKyR
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLKKlHI8qQ1
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBTynfDEi8D
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUPglAFipeo
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8lgflbQRTR
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxHapxaxPHm
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFU0MCiTJOe
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1DWXLUfQqc
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKMVFHkwvEI
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYWbqAT2VBs
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ53Y7aiKdFo
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbz4l1kmAaB
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAAT3dK0SXZ
「是的。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBt1pUpVhIv
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFaXjAbqSJT
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWf3TYl9MoA
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHkjqxOf7SJ
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmQWHsyJc5K
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwinSANnnbR
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX4D8KYJzn4
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfaZDAnuJvI
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3BBuNB3m04
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ155PMZ3txw
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyekupdOV9f
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFSnpWZxBNl
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp3qVXUSgSO
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ156STr7N0R
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHoMRtjZL4b
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBN6UGkw5yx
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR6HR0Bca6k
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE0IwJ1KaZ1
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrkhujFvAvL
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ62jiaA86Kl
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIVg4CJnB3H
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8Z8zCMkXdC
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYSjBQTt4Oj
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxKVHeIKwwV
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpQiTrPV11B
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS10ez0yio5
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd8LqH207rg
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhf54YlE7Yp
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0xc2f54CIV
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzWoK48LUrn
「太好了！」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcQA9S7XVzZ
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZyAxXYnW3i
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZMehh8MYgY
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ03qEozt0wB
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW132rUCu9G
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu9W2JsFqad
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5O215AYSXC
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLlDret9p3t
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9yfLyryENM
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPTMWtBFNHW
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuuGMHJA0Kf
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGj2oZrKj0R
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDi8vhKG7oI
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwyr1jhC7B4
「好。」旭仔答。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKRiIXZgJqZ
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv34SpZFEEv
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhXDdrevysP
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk65fptTdSN
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzy4OJboCkN
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPMA1T2VJOy
旭仔淺嘗一口。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5Z16cahHbu
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2SsbQDycpi
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdyVp6TfBbJ
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxOx4iJnFhR
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQTc0VnHxCO
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMcXBP3AMMF
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJtoFFx1dCN
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7av9vXnJFl
「好喝。」旭仔答。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE57FjybXCH
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzCnBM2vbXj
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPBEWpVMddb
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdkub4m2Np2
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNAvRDyFlou
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSxA3NiBvNd
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlxJkz94kBA
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ73ckViyGCg
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡknrGFTWe7w
521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHqTvLmFMMi
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。521Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgA6bPhBiIU
