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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiwMg8LJMUu
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3HRD8cjPki
「這麼早？」旭仔問。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmwLmhxE5zU
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJjTOxBdiTz
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0yPCTVMTJQ
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡao3A2LJPXw
「是啊，要趕路了。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSFLUHOWCHm
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUVTR3per46
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW8sjcxCx0K
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ97Ht7Dj3ah
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqaRoQfYmGC
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYxLXK4xCt8
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNmV6K33jXG
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyJxzCOxNYB
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuAXNliZPAF
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtj9JcwcqpI
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw6yKJD0cNp
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWWOo63H1Ex
「謝謝你。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoLjmJGQWqs
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTn5GH1DmOl
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvH08AcFtG5
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXquoMZqRi8
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtryF3PI0yq
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2XehIIcEt6
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKbdfFST0Vb
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi0nQi36ppF
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhsQvQ5AGJt
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtAZNKek6xn
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzdFYr9hv11
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA0jwfQ4XxM
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv7CB5EZf3B
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjI7cAW9mEu
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡod3lMChFkl
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMlJaSk9N4D
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtriVRsyBpI
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1GwtErnPoQ
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcjNwVMxtA2
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEAleRC3hI0
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLZhGFBgOSO
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMpO5MuiLgK
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQCqs8YNqmT
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqxxFj5xZlp
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdNZ6MJGc5r
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzw6sxc5eLk
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ5VzPseZqM
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB5Yox0d5iL
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNj6Eoo2nLj
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRBta2Lk4G4
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAq1J9k77Ia
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPAE0RujJ9I
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu0eHwEkA9o
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnubMy2BiFV
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy3b67fzGBe
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpkG2IMP5FG
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKtWY575kel
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLmoDvmAMK1
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLJRpd9ETtq
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡImk4N5At0U
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWr3RPKV1M6
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZBvC1gASyK
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYao15YTxTf
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9o07XO0s37
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfqRLvvoGJy
「是的。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7Zgw4pWpcn
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQF2ZR1HYoC
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3WLV4bbEH2
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjU34wzij9J
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC3FIGshLF5
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZY65GOKl9V
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmChHI3hg82
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvI0jYHPBQW
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbZoBu5yCIP
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQpDnrlv0br
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBqam3SvFZM
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJfEDBmQ364
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxBLecL0eD1
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡddKjzqLUpF
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjF3216YgYF
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfbCmr3igJZ
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXfs96mri14
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsWVGDvRO9q
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuVcRm63npD
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgcdAahnM9m
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI7b50nPNYP
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXIn82TwOrs
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF8S81VRWqt
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4lS0WCr19h
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFMaXRSL9QG
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmGO5sNAawx
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhAO7Jbpn6G
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCmB4u6E08b
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpjoB7JzUzg
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzPLzEvcuRv
「太好了！」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvxEokHOAOj
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkT9Ki4E9Tp
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiv1xJpkcCs
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSHDKI6j4kS
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5RVyqzmwhu
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlvtA02T0Ey
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEqyxgkylf6
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIyI6GWwJ7e
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtDVrEDdPT1
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJQ47el0Jlk
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnBmqlUQBkw
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbM5QRmmGQB
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFQeGFVYRKn
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBYXC5tipyU
「好。」旭仔答。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhrRdu0pPiO
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡliqpyP2wg1
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdPuyCfXHm5
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxenIqIY5y8
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ71F4w5Fwxo
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRF7xiehPmL
旭仔淺嘗一口。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnqjteiNDMn
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7Kcf8KLCsk
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXtmLJSTHjL
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡraUe7sJNvB
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZSA6k3uGRo
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXk1cJvxeUW
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrDVHzzIU3P
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbAQ63bbMR6
「好喝。」旭仔答。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj6Cq4Qx1Jk
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ03m307dNdm
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwPZhgzCNKs
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYQqQ7lGHxr
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkqY89ImX7p
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXs09cIwq8Q
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVPQt4xa512
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKTpXNib3bg
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmP2QvSfqPP
585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMVMWh2FxHT
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。585Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEphgyedZ0F
