x
朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX1kuDO42WV
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx5p0kLTkXi
「這麼早？」旭仔問。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8spVqvNwax
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfyUMxAN4gi
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN0l9Gj6xO1
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7DgBDSYCAn
「是啊，要趕路了。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq84oHDPJ0B
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ06cJtpdjHH
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX9ZJWF8fz8
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlpPwV2SBXI
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Srow8Bg5G
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNH3lkBMu3L
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIbpLNokSP9
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2GR8LxxdUo
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXFAZKOTGi0
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFFBjPrMPpC
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXuxTt6vaY8
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDKhg1nNHEm
「謝謝你。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs2nJ4PwVaR
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcRrwbNgDWm
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡheNuxJgMc6
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC8X8i5XULx
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiuAxBoJLtB
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2QzvqjgcKf
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYZlzIlBdNk
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡANEIET4VRb
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9bHzseZPkr
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ74kYZ6MEOa
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdH8efyvZKe
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaEm4phktL8
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzAYyl631Fy
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡigyE9oukUK
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡccOUltS2iw
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Ra8mWTESI
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbb2CDDy5Ft
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5uvzYSxWez
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ56PJrlphv3
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE6watgJ2Cz
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzWrnwCnc4h
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlF5nZeuJuC
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnyxHmaajGK
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA9hZVuki2L
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz7OOYgqWqh
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH0fJVeqIzH
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDsoNzWZMkH
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEwU67xs3SG
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdO3A0jsZLZ
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7LOy5idN1i
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGH3ZTVRqj3
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwcK8MkdHDp
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOMWROSpCZj
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCwOqIFEYGF
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrBYPOkISvs
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBDq6lkCVOj
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGzIFdAEmdX
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX4VmsbA8sm
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrLtcrAxV2I
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtlz62UFjzM
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG8IwKCOogj
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUtvSzYeF12
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUjrH3664i6
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk60nkt4eZv
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA4ybkJ1aoN
「是的。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfQEPpIM8Gv
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMW7LaH8i6w
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjo9EyFeqsV
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhjcSPfxtoJ
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ247YogFCvm
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbGljUUfZTN
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTZUcPf8onB
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu9dLPEvOSk
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwXG4O1jCRL
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEcSQFeRNzF
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6D2ek3QuV8
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqhms0pzmID
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkuv5kXVFPe
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx0efxevCs4
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbtolpIcS2B
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4f8pxJrXxk
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP7ETlAC04t
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpyxXCY0jTg
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIH9XfC1dJg
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuUifMIK9Oh
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9Vmz5DjlA1
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjCXNh1ALus
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Rgy7frsSz
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9zfUP2DjGP
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhqRbsdXjYA
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9nEvMlOLfb
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGNFfdOBqnz
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡucttqOLdF2
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkzlcLhYdQ1
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRRzkoUuvBq
「太好了！」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYOlACfcUdA
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9AUyPScu9U
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrcpBqCzpqm
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNDTYSPOAnc
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFfXr5JutxZ
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeJSpe6YhlR
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkumtCjvTVw
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCqrJTbc9l9
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1tB0n9AlFM
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyYh36stuXt
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbMMZe9KnHl
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHfplM1s4Xw
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡinUkl0XEih
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAPtYpukRwF
「好。」旭仔答。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvqCgUAvuVA
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHqhryyu6SM
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqcgYDXvkhN
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZZJOmhztbG
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxX2A4Ll4vP
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXTbDXDdRor
旭仔淺嘗一口。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS1lNubHY7R
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmlsP8wfl3b
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHxWXwEmGUu
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6UhWUUyCO9
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwMKhC0gE5x
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqp2mq3qsXL
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡal21rRJ8yt
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAeJt9cyOWb
「好喝。」旭仔答。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoZO3PIGAEF
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQK8I2qwvmz
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWM7lIvS9YB
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQekLZkWO83
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0kDp2ncL65
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTgWeudUdGX
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzGTkkV9tuI
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8lZPlL8Doe
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfMFSUcx1Wd
565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcl8Wt74zzS
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。565Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpJU3rk4SZ0
