朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7X64HbnHyI
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpXOOeHLKIx
「這麼早？」旭仔問。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRu9fmRilbq
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnNWmGCE94M
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡckf2FrKGki
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqJv8oJqthR
「是啊，要趕路了。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe2rG3Qi8p3
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjBPNaErC0r
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhz83dDKPeH
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpdKX1p01uU
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOWd4cf40Al
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxU6FZgzUEj
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnKwZWO0nnD
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOWnJe1EpFz
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPAiHgjAp3S
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7fHe1OCd7D
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeQcM55uCVq
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡodGYjjglZ2
「謝謝你。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf5jI9Zlppr
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTfDSroOcH8
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2EmP5Shnlu
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqE4osMYRO1
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuF4i2q7vgq
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuAlv9zedMs
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb8GMVtyOGe
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9iWyYQVlnL
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDkUuY5yL4c
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgSfw93jXhC
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0g92Fjpjan
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbhTorjZEZA
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd5sFGrSzX8
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd4MUqKuJaY
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡce3By1rRXu
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9FtkAROKQV
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVZHewPBqCu
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRVWZOCAane
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMw7xOob1SH
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGDsa4uhW92
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ8MkFgsoBX
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGfz6ZgpmX5
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdd0rgUYWJe
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiLEpmzVHoO
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡduz6MUKSQC
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAQk4aoYSvX
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE5YvdOqVTE
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNdwMWNIRbd
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkFtxbrkwrT
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWRqDgwSBHP
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ28wYEKfLHy
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4q3vTXqtNU
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqQ266rwgQK
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn3upRhsBUj
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOIFcMcG7D3
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKrmSqR3txJ
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKsRHnj77TB
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQEV3XN3dxZ
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtnwy3lJjUq
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1BwsiFEv7b
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ23yuGZo47v
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡghrhjiuTUE
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDkfUd1wpB2
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSBrvX0DDFw
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ZgFFBCcLc
「是的。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnzDxiv5QoB
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjiaSLPrhvr
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeXNbxLN4HR
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlXvhIT771H
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUhw12UwT7c
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJMK5UWRYan
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2NJbEjt1xX
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeadd3e9HIK
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWofHS4Ij9R
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYeWH5cE6tQ
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgk7slh7cOp
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZQrDVMcE0O
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlwhvwJIA9k
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH0yxcTxouW
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZddWSFLxk1
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7BwWuSznWm
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXo4IjUkpnr
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJBOyMDjm0r
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwTFmow1Tzt
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEm3E4qCGwc
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLyHvQ0rzS4
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIGMqZsiRXR
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOOhuwJBap0
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXlTKTgOKTm
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA0w711DTpi
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpDO23MojWT
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIjf3W4iEoc
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw6PZ8ebNZf
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZe27ipRicm
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnWDVwNyAY1
「太好了！」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCtBU9SZIQO
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTJzixmcVz4
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD53CCFWCB6
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJKQuVmMRPK
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVx6EaPEMA8
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX6lsuTRqFY
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBXNc2z4rwR
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx0uAMwBen6
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQAESY8fbrK
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVMbNpW3uVp
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5qZoUewXK5
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCThcBm9vsB
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD9Pg5Rjo4i
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw2ENOud8yd
「好。」旭仔答。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVLKO4zchI1
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyLhEoK4hPJ
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeWWfZmiImK
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPzH31EDJTd
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0ZtoaNKwyX
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡckPRwZL4Dd
旭仔淺嘗一口。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFQuMEJIxUt
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGsaG2GYgVu
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHZ63pCVZHv
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFXY8PwI6Fm
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnbzdyMPWqB
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpAvuZOyYnO
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxs1OhKNtNx
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpgcs74nzmS
「好喝。」旭仔答。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjIPo6Ix2hv
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmhectreOM3
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnfr7SRWgT6
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1n1YGRgxBs
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJnoVhixacn
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKHk5Z9mzVV
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTgB8tl06QF
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtLq9IQ5WEe
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ32soLQ0vWL
628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4JtR4ev4MY
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。628Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZrsmSTf0Te
