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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu8tx726pgB
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRPgPd844eq
「這麼早？」旭仔問。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡshkPhFMrr1
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFeqe3NyCrg
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOQaF8cZrxK
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt1EeRZWefn
「是啊，要趕路了。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxHVrzIhAqX
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzO7id5LY1E
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqjXi2RNTr7
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZtQZdNAUcA
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzCkLqAJIov
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG1ZjxNezhC
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzLmHlFuGpI
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAcRfXu86LO
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsUAceG1wmN
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLHlYlJ66lK
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlv5QExVEkb
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6xYMbyG3iZ
「謝謝你。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg5DU9SJ3t0
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW4W2oNFonh
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdzLNW95t33
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHp98D5biZD
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ5lXCkPxNC
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ97jtVznC9m
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRCImegWd2P
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRY6b7KtdcJ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP3rG0jGIfu
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk9EDfVYorx
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1UA1rSNfnX
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpDrI1xR6NZ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEI2GCC8tJA
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7lpLYbaGPH
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlUYtgBo5gV
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhZp3oEMTRJ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPcwtSxqkAq
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ911rVdZeUQ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡskExfPaXGH
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbsSTMqqrLW
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbrkMfFRJ30
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgKVw4gQiSb
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzAKWgC8Dhr
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKq6o0Eli67
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxvHYA2IW0J
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJmpCmDV9EF
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡulE3K0PUlZ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrh4WPqr9iX
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoHmr1ReVDd
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE4xqTcMG0B
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA6uF02mcEx
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiVKeTtspOX
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRFiBiQN8Yg
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9jQsa4RxgF
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAFOqANR9I6
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0DvZy8IFuI
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8in045GALZ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtlV1lFRQnb
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOwytJPrX1c
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNARgcvo9Q1
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUZKZ8MpvKC
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTyfBZ8LWAn
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIuiFZuQ1MZ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡic8jz47AGx
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJvpMulWcjf
「是的。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGoZg7fVKPg
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡso0ery918z
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrpfJ4j1kh6
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyqwyhXxknv
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7Z0w4va3Qm
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3mZZvReYrf
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvjh2XnioZK
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX0BoWldTTl
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlxvAR5SrWh
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfQDcFpEiRG
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6KVsoz8GAU
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2tcG1goeDl
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXWPgwbEzOi
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuxQYQ36myK
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe8XzC9PRzi
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ4XBN9WYYT
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9lv7F53Fe6
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF1IcqveTgo
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBsVAPV16aG
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjjPZQmpvDy
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLQJXvn64Nd
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7WsCE0Wfoi
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLwlTn6f4li
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjg0mhco7tg
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYZ83jhuUtA
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3uFmOruw0n
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjkD47Kz5Bg
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYuVLzhZous
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfAc0xxi0mP
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW1gNk2905d
「太好了！」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7KvoAP3Z3W
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUvjF9AOOQ7
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxuEcybUIVt
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsSKcCqPq3d
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsEL4vcB0hs
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbRD1owixjb
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1oe6uqC8mw
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmf4CSo8JpT
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvAZvhPpaMK
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLmInzoA2iX
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsJcQRXWtVs
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPeXNydBsEU
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9YpvovaCdG
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7WmZh1E6gA
「好。」旭仔答。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoXIj5ZuCKf
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEInW7H7cFD
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXmhZnXKIIo
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqG6rCHyhhv
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvK9LOPdBV9
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPcVIWKFQGs
旭仔淺嘗一口。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoTVzeqBNdq
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCdbLk5uLmb
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCwSmDhtmJY
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3YLFP28q1L
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWAKvyJfZ1A
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyoOCyv14GT
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpau7y8PBNJ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW7q8ww64aP
「好喝。」旭仔答。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡspREJOprTI
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsrhAGBUmlP
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3fBFrjqIeZ
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgWTofDkDTZ
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3xHlr5ecVq
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhRS4shB7Eg
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkZHMMfnAzu
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB80yNflThv
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzUZPm50gy4
541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡySMOpjfAJD
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。541Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡljDpyzFEEs
