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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6C50J4kOuZ
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCUOvjX0Yyz
「這麼早？」旭仔問。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr5YufEIPLx
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYk1eJxFod0
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFhdQ1vL24x
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4TTLPkO4q2
「是啊，要趕路了。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJw7DtE1j81
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK4B0X88rxU
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo7TEBxt7Pm
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡakiPLNCcY0
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1GI3pJsxhL
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHelL1JgqCE
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsIOOveQhc1
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFQIe7AStzW
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQOwaDwEQsb
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyFs2WCe1VZ
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRgrQJFjDtu
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOUbIxuCLWJ
「謝謝你。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcwPzUXOVjN
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMt54ogmDKi
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmnZgpC4v3x
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQZH7K4TUx2
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp0lfc490Oz
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR4nqSAhTRO
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrIA30lCxbh
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhGZuoo7DoA
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlYtXoBdV46
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ51WJjPvfSj
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3ALEC5NdDG
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo6Yq0XKBco
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFkFgmVRqHW
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7yc4RZEwX5
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2XrpqjM1k5
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡia5cyc5CHY
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpd6lCc99cG
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMWXGd3HeX7
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ul2YIehoU
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQgaWm0rF8c
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJXz4L4bpVS
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZExeUJpdjG
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmHdnmImCAT
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaAX2vyUlk7
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4UWhGNDAbp
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJBeOaqOxVk
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhtvBoBKxsT
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG6oJxEasiq
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi4TcrZJdUH
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOhsZfslvJb
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkxwgiuWv5y
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAp0rQnOVcF
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQCXxov89LR
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRnQLy8x8WS
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyWkgxvbWfi
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmxtjuFIYGg
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqN9FG86xO9
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjbrndhMC0U
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHnd8feTttG
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFXkcBAaAN4
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXjr3cnzfxx
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6xO1KfEBoe
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ1e5lwcsMR
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmoV3NT5T6c
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHHMdMUl2B0
「是的。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYiOX2mjkXR
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBkL9SzQjYa
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLFezQEvWlS
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQx3p7VzZXs
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMQzkGmEuRI
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfCXu3ySy5r
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡksPZheJ988
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyFu9G04OEw
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsnG76hhLH3
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjXrf557uAA
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjpmc0SSLCC
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOaDBjaxV8L
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtb8WCudEKU
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHkstiqULRu
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgVLUylxzvv
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVYDb6xjdU8
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmIzTWtY2lc
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡczR7xRvQPT
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsvdeZtNRof
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNJmUsjwfXl
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHNS5OTS7cD
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVgfPKK46Ek
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkL4vdnZxqp
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiKfxIgP7HK
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKvFkPVpAcB
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc5ixbkrh1X
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgydBHMVXCA
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLrPCHGHUgB
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFKMqkKVIRi
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQOWYGyG5fA
「太好了！」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0xSMeMpdXa
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8E4kCi9kYk
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp29TUjuogm
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuj8ZhqMWsv
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYjeZVRQPnt
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5IMKeCHSNE
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPY3P4oWFJy
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLBtlLkr5a1
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPo3ZxC3EWE
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiqjGATYq8i
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYqcIudKD1l
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFttTiDBPMM
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFtPsJSMjmA
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnymM8wEd1U
「好。」旭仔答。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNYNUJw9PHh
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaVAPXjQbFO
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUf4yhVpopu
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgj4m91Dv4z
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfpKOk9vXzG
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmMGwSz9C3a
旭仔淺嘗一口。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQfFV0hpKBS
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ojQZcho2c
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw2xd2rYrDL
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKv6gR0kPJv
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOy5UYp3k1p
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEsXCij2Eov
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl0CuKw9FtC
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaVm6WRh6wY
「好喝。」旭仔答。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOBrBbdXJ0x
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1RhSFz9oLY
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp1zBHQQOxS
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfj8XnCHsq4
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKJnyNE7ySf
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBFC5Uzz9EN
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIBc1V1UmCu
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkcKNnqUdaZ
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfMv1hzJBs4
586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkRd8zBuBbs
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。586Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfgfMgfWsHY
